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The short answer: the best hair conditioner is the one whose ingredient list matches what your hair is missing. Dry hair needs humectants that hold water. Damaged or bleached hair needs protein. Fine hair needs light conditioning that does not flatten it. Every conditioner claims all three on the front of the bottle; the back of the bottle tells you which one it actually is. This guide shows you how to read it, using our own conditioners as the worked examples, so you can apply the same method to any brand. What every conditioner has in common Turn over almost any rinse-out conditioner and the first few ingredients look alike: water, then cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, then a long name ending in -monium chloride or -monium methosulfate. Those alcohols are not the drying kind. They are fatty alcohols — waxy solids that give conditioner its thickness and leave the strand soft. The -monium ingredient is the conditioning agent itself. It carries a positive charge, and damaged areas of the hair carry a negative one, so it settles where the hair needs it most and stays after rinsing. On our Metamorfose conditioners that agent is distearoylethyl dimonium chloride; on our masks it is behentrimonium methosulfate with cetrimonium chloride. So the base is rarely where conditioners differ. The difference is the handful of ingredients that come after it — and that is where to look. Rinse-out, leave-in or mask: three different jobs Rinse-out conditioner Used after every wash, left on for a minute or two, rinsed. Its job is slip and softness so you can detangle without breakage. This is the one most people mean when they search for the best conditioner. Leave-in conditioner Sprayed on damp hair and left there. Our two-phase leave-ins are water plus a volatile silicone (tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane) and amodimethicone — that is why the bottle separates into two layers you shake together. The volatile silicone spreads a light film and then evaporates, which makes this format the natural choice for fine hair, detangling, and a first layer before heat styling. Hair mask A richer version of a rinse-out, used once a week and left on longer. Our masks share a heavier base — cetyl and stearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-25, plus dimethicone and amodimethicone. We covered where the line sits in deep conditioner vs conditioner. The best conditioner for each hair type, read from the label Dry hair: look for humectants Dry hair is short of water, so the ingredients that matter are the ones that hold it: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sugars. The Metamorfose Moist Boost Conditioner is the clearest example we make. After the base it lists hydrolyzed collagen and then eight different forms of hyaluronic acid — sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, potassium hyaluronate and four more — along with glucose, glycerin and a seaweed extract (Chondrus crispus). If your hair feels rough and dull rather than broken, start here. Damaged, bleached or breaking hair: look for protein Hair that snaps has lost structure, and hydrolyzed proteins are small enough to sit in the damaged areas and reinforce them temporarily. The Metamorfose Bond Care Conditioner carries hydrolyzed keratin with amla (Emblica officinalis), oat and sunflower seed oil. Two honest notes, because labels are where marketing and chemistry part ways. First, despite the name, Bond Care does not contain a bond-building molecule of the kind used in salon bond-repair treatments; it is a protein conditioner, and a good one. Second, our Keratin Hair Mask gets its protein from hydrolyzed corn, wheat and soy — there is no keratin in its ingredient list. Both work on damaged hair; neither is quite what its name suggests, and you should know that before you buy. If your damage is from dryness as much as processing, the Milk Therapy Hair Mask combines both: hydrolyzed milk protein and fifteen amino acids, each named on the label. Fine hair that goes flat: go lighter, not richer Fine hair is weighed down by heavy silicones and oils, so the rule is the lightest format that still detangles. For many people with fine hair that means a leave-in spray instead of a rinse-out: the Quinoa & Hemp Leave-In is built on water, cyclopentasiloxane and amodimethicone, with quinoa and hemp seed extracts. If you prefer a rinse-out, Bond Care is the one to try, because it is the only one of our three rinse-out conditioners with no silicone in the list — nothing to build up over a week of washes. For a weekly mask, check where dimethicone sits: in the Quinoa & Hemp Mask it comes after propylene glycol, lower down the list; in our Argan, Collagen and Purple masks it is the second ingredient. That does not make those masks wrong for fine hair, but it does mean they belong on the mid-lengths and ends, not the roots. Dull or frizzy hair: look for smoothing agents Shine comes from a smooth surface that reflects light. The Metamorfose Glossy Touch Conditioner is built for that: ceramide 3, glycolic and acetic acid, amodimethicone and phenyl trimethicone — the last one is a silicone chosen specifically for shine. Very dry, coarse or curly hair: a leave-in cream When a rinse-out is not enough, the answer is usually something that stays in. The Milk Therapy Hair Butter carries shea and coconut butter with more than a dozen plant oils, including argan, avocado, jojoba and sweet almond. If you are not sure whether your hair wants that much, our guide to hair porosity is the quickest way to find out. Blonde, grey or lightened hair The Purple Hair Mask is a conditioner that also deposits violet pigment (CI 60730 and CI 42090) to cancel yellow. Use it in place of your usual mask once a week. Silicones: the honest version Silicones are not bad for hair. Amodimethicone in particular is designed to cling to damaged areas and rinse away from healthy ones, so it builds up less than the older silicones. What silicones can do is weigh fine hair down if the product is heavy, and build up if you never use a clarifying wash. The practical rule: if your hair is fine or oily at the root, choose a silicone-free rinse-out or keep silicone products to the ends. If your hair is coarse, dry or frizzy, silicones are usually what you want. One ingredient to know if you have sensitive skin All three Metamorfose rinse-out conditioners and every mask mentioned in this guide list methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone as preservatives. They are permitted in rinse-off products, where contact time is short, and most people use them without issue. But if you have ever had a skin reaction diagnosed as a sensitivity to methylisothiazolinone, check for these two names — on ours and on any other brand's. Our two-phase leave-in sprays are preserved differently. How to use conditioner so it actually works Lengths, not roots. The ends are the oldest, driest part of the hair. The scalp makes its own oil. Squeeze the water out first. Conditioner spreads further and dilutes less on hair that is not dripping. Give it a minute or two. Longer is not better for a rinse-out; that is what a mask is for. Detangle while it is in. This is when the hair has the most slip, so a wide-tooth comb does the least damage. How often is a separate question and depends on your hair and how often you wash — we answered it in detail in how often you should condition your hair. To compare everything side by side, see our hair conditioners and the full conditioners and masks range. Frequently asked questions What is the best conditioner for fine hair? A light one. A two-phase leave-in spray usually suits fine hair better than a rich rinse-out, because the volatile silicone evaporates after spreading. If you want a rinse-out, choose one without silicones — among ours, that is the Metamorfose Bond Care Conditioner — and keep it off the roots. What is the best conditioner for dry, damaged hair? Decide which problem is bigger. If the hair is rough and dull, you need humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid. If it snaps and breaks, you need hydrolyzed protein. Hair that is both usually does best with a protein-and-moisture product, such as a milk protein mask once a week alongside a humectant rinse-out. Is silicone in conditioner bad for your hair? No. Silicones smooth the surface and reduce friction, which protects the hair. The downsides are weight on fine hair and build-up if you never use a clarifying shampoo. Amodimethicone, the most common one in modern conditioners, is designed to deposit mainly on damaged areas. Should I use a rinse-out and a leave-in conditioner together? You can, and it helps dry or long hair. Use the rinse-out in the shower, then a light leave-in on damp hair before styling. If your hair is fine, pick one or the other so it does not go flat. How long should I leave conditioner in? One to two minutes for a rinse-out. The conditioning agents attach quickly; leaving it longer adds little. If your hair needs more, switch to a mask once a week and give that five to ten minutes. Is a hair mask better than conditioner? It is richer, not better. A mask has a heavier base and is meant for weekly use; a conditioner is built for every wash. Using a mask every day on fine hair is a common reason it goes limp.